Producer Org: Café Sierra Azul Varietal(s): Typica, Bourbon, Mundo Novo Processing: Fully washed & dried on patios Altitude: 1,000 to 1,900 metres above sea level Owner: 200 small holder farmers Town: El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve, Ejido Capitan Luis A. Vidal Region: Siltepec, Chiapas Country: Mexico Total size of farm: 3 hectares
Café Sierra Azul is a relatively small cooperative that brings together just over 200 small holder farmers living within Southern Mexico’s El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve. Named for the bluish hue of the tree covered mountains of the Reserve (the sierra azul, in Spanish), the organisation’s members are unified not only in improving the livelihoods of communities across the municipality of Siltepec and beyond but also in their aim of producing the region’s best speciality coffee.
Sierra Azul is relatively new – formed only in 2010 – but it has quickly grown and achieved great things during its short life. Starting with just 37 producers, the group has now grown to 227 farmer members, has achieved a wide array of organic certifications (including EU and NOP) and Fair Trade certification, and has begun exporting their coffee around the world. Sierra Azul, first and foremost, was developed in order to help small producers reach speciality coffee and more direct markets for their coffee, enabling them to escape the cycle of selling coffee to local coyotes for very low prices. Today, producer members within the 14 communities currently working with the group have benefitted from not only being able to sell their coffee at a higher price than previously, they’ve also benefited from a wide variety of social programs.
Siltepec, Chiapas has all the makings of an excellent coffee origin, with plentiful water, fertile soil and high altitudes. Sierra Azul has made every effort to make sure that the natural potential of the landscape finds a perfect pairing on each producer’s farm. Each small holder member processes and dries his/her own coffee, so it is of the utmost importance that the greatest care is taken in providing farmer training in all aspects of coffee production. The result of the organisation’s intervention has been some of the highest yields in the region (10-12 quintals per hectare, compared to the national average of 8 quintals per hectare).
Shade and sanitary pruning are conducted between the months of March to May, just after the harvest season. Once the rainy season starts in May/June, members begin renovation activities. The vast majority of producers have their own nursery, or share one with a neighbour or family member. Seedlings are grown using the very best cherries from each harvest, which are reserved and set aside to ensure the next generation. Renovation activities are of crucial importance to long term sustainability, and each producer is encouraged by Sierra Azul to maintain a nursery according to their capacity.
As a cooperative, Sierra Azul continues betting on traditional varieties like Typica, Mundo Novo and Bourbon. In every aspect of their work with producers, the message of quality is consistent, with the end aim of quality in the cup being made clear as the motivation at each juncture of agricultural work. As such, the cooperative also has a centralised nursery where they trial new varieties (such as Geisha), conduct trainings and where they investigate solutions to the problem of coffee leaf rust. Their long term goal is to first recover the 15 quintals per hectare yields on average that they were seeing before the rust epidemic of 2012-14 and to slowly work towards achieving an average production of 30 quintals per hectare - but through continuing to use the region’s traditional varieties. Identifying local mutations that are high-yielding, rust-resistant and that produce high cup quality is key to their experimentation. The group is working with local banks to ensure long-term loans for plot renovation, and they hope to continue with more financing so that, within 4 years, 90% of the membership’s coffee plots have seen renovation.
In July through October, as a result of the rains, weeds begin to grow. Since all plots are managed organically, producers do weeding by hand, using a machete. For this laborious work, some farmers hire temporary labourers, but the majority rely on family.